SIMPLE HOME WASTE REDUCTION SOLUTIONS:

VERMICOMPOSTING
(PART 1)

VERMICOMPOSTING
(PART 2)

YARD COMPOSTING
(PART 1)

SEED STARTING 
​(PART 1)

QUICK PICKLES

YARD COMPOSTING
(PART 2)

SEED STARTING
​(PART 2)

BEESWAX WRAPS

SEE THE TEXT FOR EACH VIDEO BELOW WITH SUMMARIZED STEPS ON EACH TOPIC

HOME COMPOSTING SOLUTIONS
​MAKE EARTH DAY EVERY DAY WITH HOME COMPOSTING

One of the easiest and most effective ways to celebrate and protect Earth and our shared environment every day is by composting at home. It is easy, pleasant and anyone can do it. By composting at home you can reduce the organic waste that goes to the landfill, such as your kitchen scraps and yard trimmings, by transforming it into nutrient and life rich fertilizer for your garden, or a garden in your community. Composting is recycling inspired by nature! 

EDUCATIONAL VIDEO SUMMARY & ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

BENEFITS OF COMPOSTING AT HOME

• reduce waste & pollution
• use of compost improves soil nutrients & structure for plant growth and health
• use of compost improves soil's water retention and drainage capacities
• use of compost reduces soil erosion
• compost is an organic alternative to other store bought fertilizers and pesticides

TYPES OF COMPOSTING SYSTEMS FOR THE HOME

• Worm Bin (vermicompost) - composts kitchen scraps with the help of decomposing worms and other microorganisms in as small as a 1 cubic foot bin - newspaper and cardboard can be composted in this system also - perfect for apartment and condo dwellers, and a must have for any home
• Hot Compost - composts kitchen scraps and yard trimmings in a pile or bin system - 3'x3'x3' minimum size, 5'x5'x5' maximum size

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HOME VERMICOMPOSTING PART 1:
BASICS OF A HOME VERMICOMPOST SYSTEM

At home, vermicomposting is the practice of composting kitchen scraps with the help of decomposing worms and other microorganisms for the fastest and most effective results: reduction of home generated food waste from going to landfills by transforming it into nutrient rich, soil regenerating and plant health supporting, compost. The compost produced by the home vermicompost system is also called "worm castings" or simply "vermicompost". 

EDUCATIONAL VIDEO SUMMARY & ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

FOOD WASTE PROBLEM

• 1.3 billion tons of food waste generated annually world wide - 15% of total food waste generated globally comes from homes
• most food waste ends up in the landfill - all the resources used to produce the food and those used to process it are wasted in this process +  associated pollution is generated

FOOD WASTE SOLUTIONS 

• ​plan food shopping to reduce spoilage 
• compost inevitable kitchen scraps
• practice vermicompost as the easiest and most effective home composting method - can be done indoors

VERMICOMPOST STARTING POINTS

• start by saving the kitchen scraps and other food wastes in a small container on the kitchen counter - decomposing microorganisms will start the process for the decomposing worms to continue
• make sure to source specialized decomposing worms (different than earth worms) - red wigglers and night crawlers
• in your home bin system decomposition is done by decomposing worms and other decomposing microorganisms
• for effective and trouble free vermicompsting, such as smells, insects or complete failure, ensure proper environmental conditions inside and around the vermicompost bin system

SUCCESSFUL HOME VERMICOMPOSTING

• Food: feed raw veggie and fruit scraps - avoid those cooked in oil, heavy sauces or covered in excessive dressing - include coffee grounds, tea bags, avocado pits - avoid all processed foods, such as breads and cheeses, as well as meats and bones - avoid onion, garlic and citrus
• Grit: add grit in the form of crushed eggshells, sand or organic garden soil - helps the digestive system of worms
• Bedding: start with 2'-3' layer at bottom and always have a layer cover all bin contents also - shred and use newspappers, paper bags and or cardboard - avoid printer paper, glossy paper and white (bleached) paper napkins - bedding will also be consumed by worms and bin microorganisms
• Moisture: keep system as a wrung out sponge - you may have to add water from time to time
• Location: worms need a temperature between 65 and 75 to thrive and can tolerate as low as 40 and as high as 85 - dry, hot and direct sun exposure to UV lights are catastrophic - under sink and/or garage are great spaces - the longer the dark period, the happier the system and more even decomposition of food scraps and bedding

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HOME VERMICOMPOSTING PART 2:
HOW TO START & MANAGE A HOME VERMICOMPOST BIN SYSTEM

EDUCATIONAL VIDEO SUMMARY & ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

THE COMPONENTS OF A SUCCESSFUL HOME VERMICOMPOST BIN SYSTEM

• Top Bin: minimum 1 cubic foot and no more than 1.5 cubic feet - drilled holes at the bottom for air flow and drainage of excess moisture - lid that does not close completely tight to allow for air flow - this is the main bin where the worms will be hosted in their bedding and kitchen scraps are added
• Catchment Tray: bottom tray for main bin to fit in and catch all excess moisture
• Risers: placed in catchment tray to keep top bin elevated for easy air flow and drainage
• Bottom Bedding: 2' to 3' of bedding at bottom that can allow for air flow and maintain moisture in the system - newspaper, cardboard, paper bags - the bedding will be consumed and processed in the vermicompost by the worms and decomposing microorganisms also - 
• Worms: 1/2 pound to 1 pound should start the system - make sure to use specialized decomposing worms (red wigglers or night crawlers) - worms process half to their full body weight every few days and double their population every 3 to 4 months (therefore increasing their processing/composting capacity (the bin used in this instance can host up to 4 pounds of worms and process up to 100 pounds of kitchen scraps before the system overflows
• Kitchen Scraps: raw veggie and fruit scraps - avoid those cooked in oil, heavy sauces or covered in excessive dressing - include coffee grounds, tea bags, avocado pits - avoid all processed foods, such as breads and cheeses, as well as meats and bones - avoid onion, garlic and citrus
• Grit: crushed eggshells, sand or organic garden soil - helps the digestive system of worms
• Top Bedding: 2' to 3' of bedding should be added after worms and food is placed over the bottom bedding to cover all contents and protect against fruit flies and other insects from accessing and making home in the bin system
• Water: water should be added to maintain moisture in the bin system with the consistency of a wrung out sponge

STEPS TO STARTING THE HOME VERMICOMPOST BIN SYSTEM

• place risers in Catchment Tray
• place Top Bin on Risers inside Catchment Tray
• add 2' to 3' of Bottom Bedding
• introduce Worms
• dump Kitchen Scraps on top or on side of Worms (feed)
• add Grit
• add 2' to 3' of Top Bedding
• add Water
• place bin system in a dark or constantly shaded cool place 
• important: worms may "crawl" on the side of the bin in the first few days and return under Top Bedding
• important: never turn or mix the contents of the bin as you would do regular yard compost

FEEDING

• move Top Bedding to one side of bin and add new feed when you observe most of previous feed is gone
• cover back with the Top Bedding and add extra bedding material to this top layer if you observe that it has decomposed
• always make sure Top Bedding covers the content of the bin completely
• add Grit at least once a month if you are not feeding the system eggshells on a regular basis
• add water as needed to keep Top Bedding layer moist

SIMPLE HARVEST

• plan harvest day after bin fills bin 1/4 to 1/3 way with the worms castings (the vermicompost) by not feeding till all of the last feed is gone
• move Top Bedding to one side of bin and add new feed in one corner of the bin system
• cover back with the Top Bedding and add extra bedding material to this top layer if you observe that it has decomposed
• in 1 to 3 days, move Top Bedding from the opposite corner from where you added feed last and proceed to harvest - it is safe to scoop it up with your hand, or by using a glove or garden trowel - most worms navigated to where you fed lest, however some worms may still be present in your harvested castings (using this directly in your garden will not hurt the worms)
• use this compost by laying it straight on top of your garden's soil or mix it in and water throughly
• you can also make a vermicompost tea to cover a larger area of your garden with the valuable nutrients and soil beneficial microorganisms contained in the vermicompost (you can easily find a simple recipe online to do this)
• you can also find other more involved harvest methods in other online resources

TROUBLESHOOTING

• smells are a sign of to much feeding - remove excess food and add extra bedding
• persistent extra moisture will require all content to be removed and extra Bottom Bedding added 
• fruit flies and insects are a sign of not covering the contents of the bin well enough or with enough Top Bedding
• worms "escaping" the bin system can mean that the bin is extra hot, extra wet or extra dry

IF YOU NEED TROUBLESHOOTING HELP AND/OR HAVE ADDITIONAL QUESTIONS RELATED TO HOME VERMICOMPOSTING THAT ARE NOT ADDRESSED IN THIS CONTENT, PLEASE DO NOT HESITATE TO CONTACT US AT: LUCIAN@REEARTHCONSULTING.COM

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HOME COMPOSTING PART 1:
THE BASICS OF HOME COMPOSTING SYSTEMS

Composting is the art and science of mixing organic materials, monitoring biological activity and controlling conditions to produce an environment which is conducive to the rapid decomposition of organic matter and production of usable organic fertilizer. The composting process is inspired by nature. Nature recycles all organic matter and has been doing it since the beginning of life through the process of decomposition. Through this process, nature replenishes soil and nourishes plant growth. While it is a complex, biological and ecological process, putting decomposition to work is something anyone can do at home through composting. ​

EDUCATIONAL VIDEO SUMMARY & ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

BASICS OF COMPOST

• humans do not really compost, tiny living creatures do. When we create the right conditions in a compost pile, billions of microorganisms, mainly bacteria and fungi, use organic matter as food and break it down as they digest it. 
• ​when we compost we want to provide these microorganisms with the basics of life: air, water and a balanced diet that includes both carbohydrates (such as dried up organic matter, we shall call browns or Carbon rich materials - straw, chopped woody prunings, fallen leaves, even shredded newspaper) and proteins (such as green or fresh  and moist organic matter, we shall call greens or Nitrogen rich materials - veggie and fruit kitchen scraps, coffee grounds and used coffee filters, lawn clippings,  young weeds and herbivore animal manures, such as cows, horses, chicken, sheep and the like - do not add dog and cat manures to any compost pile).

2 MAIN COMPOSTING APPROACHES

• “as-you-go” compost pile: composters add materials such as yard trimmings or kitchen scraps to the pile as they become available. These piles are more likely to be “cold” and slower to decompose, especially if a “no fuss” method of maintenance is employed (explored further in the text).
• ​“batch” compost: composters save up yard debris and build the pile all at once. Some composters save dried up, Carbon/Brown, materials for a while,  and plan to get these piles started at the end of growing seasons, when lots of Nitrogen/Green materials become available after a garden clean up. These piles are likely to heat up quickly and produce finished compost between 3 weeks and a couple of months, especially if an “active” method of maintenance is employed. By the way, the heating up occurs due to the growing decomposing activity of the composting microorganisms in the presence of the right environmental conditions created (good browns and greens mixture, air flow and moisture)
• in order to get a home compost “pile” to heat up and decompose properly its size must be at least 3x3x3’ and not exceeding 5x5x5’. It can be a pile on the ground, or contained in a bin system. The system can be built from recycled pallets, fencing wire or other wood. Depending on preference, bins made of recycled plastic can be purchased also. The Carlsbad Composting Program recommends the Geobins.

2 COMPOSTING MANAGEMENT APPROACHES​

• 1.“no Fuss” Composting: this method requires no turning, yet it needs to be kept moist as a wrung out sponge, and requires a rodent-resistant bin to prevent animal nesting. 
• ​​​​Ingredients: this management system is recommended for yard trimmings only! 
• Directions: Yard trimmings (both browns and greens) can be fed to the compost pile, either chopped or whole as they are generated.
• ​​Management: Water at least 1 time per week. 
• Harvest: The volume will alway decrease, as decomposition happens. Compost can be harvested in 12 to 18 months from the bottom and center of the pile. If the pile has way more brown materials than green, the process can be slow and prolonged. The materials that did not decompose can be used to start a new pile. 
• 2. “active” Composting: this method requires regular turning and watering at least 1 time per week. Active maintenance will prevent animal nesting! 
• ​​Ingredients: Yard Trimmings Only (both browns and greens) OR both Yard Trimmings and Kitchen scraps (with kitchen scraps, feed raw veggie and fruit scraps only, as well as coffee grounds, tea bags and egg shells - citrus rinds are okay also - do not add processed foods such as bread, cheese, bones, meat, or cooked food heavy in sauces - experienced composters can include these items in “batch” active compost systems). If you do not 
• Directions: feed yard trimmings to compost by chopping them first into pieces 6 inches or smaller, then mixing them into the pile. A balance of 1 or 2 part greens to 1 part browns will kick start good decomposition and “heat” up the pile once it reaches 1 cubic yard in size (3x3x3). If you are adding kitchen scraps, you will need to bury them in the middle of the pile or cover with at least 4 to 6 inches of yard trimmings (never dump and run - kitchen scraps at the surface of the pile will attract unwanted insects and animals)
• Management: turn or mix ingredients at least 1 time per week. Keep moist as a wrung out sponge
• Harvest: compost can be harvested in 3 to 8 months. The materials that did not decompose can be used to start a new pile. 
• NOTE: some composters purchase a bale of straw or pile up yard trimmings as a no-fuss method to use as the Brown, Carbon source, in the “active” pile when Green, Nitrogen source, becomes available. ​

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HOME COMPOSTING PART 2:
HOT COMPOST & TROUBLESHOOTING

EDUCATIONAL VIDEO SUMMARY & ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Active Batch or Hot Composting will produce the fastest and best compost for your garden.
ACTIVE BATCH / HOT COMPOSTING AT HOME STEPS: 

• 1. Gather enough green, Nitrogen rich, and brown, Carbon rich materials to make at least a 3x3x3 pile (one cubic yard) and to balance the equal volume of each. 1 to 1 will work Nitrogen to Carbon ratio will work, 2 to 1 will make higher quality and Nitrogen rich compost. 
• 2. Shred or chop coarse and/or woody materials into 6 inches or less pieces to increase their surface area to ease the decomposers job. Use a pruner, a machete or a square point spade shovel on a block of wood. A shredder or chipper can be very effective.  Even a lawn mower can do the job on a hard surface, such as a driveway, to chop up materials.
• 3. Start building the pile with a 4 to 6 inch base of coarser, brown materials (such as small branches, corn stalks or straw) to help air circulate from below.
• 4. Add a 4 to 6 inch layer of green, nitrogen rich, materials. Moisten and mix the green and brown layers together, so bacteria can feed on both layers simultaneously. If the greens are not very fresh, add food scraps, grass, or poultry or cow manure. 
• 5. Continue alternating and mixing layers of green and brown materials and adding water until your bin is full (if done in a pile, keep the same minimum pile height and width in mind - at least 3 feet). The top 3 inches layer should be brown, carbon rich materials, aged compost or soil 
• 6. Close the lid of the bin or cover with tarp and wait.
• 7. You can monitor the temperature of the interior of the pile on a regular basis, using either a thermometer with a 6 to 12 inch long probe or a kitchen thermometer buried in the middle of the pile with a piece of twine attached for easy retrieval. The temperature should begin to rise within 24 to 72 hours and peak between 120 and 155 Fahrenheit in 4 to 7 days. Peaking too quickly or reaching temperatures over 155 are signs of too much Nitrogen rich materials and can reduce the quality of the finished compost. 
• 8. When temperature starts to decrease, turn the pile. Take materials from the out edges and the top of the pile and place them at the base and middle of the new pile. Those materials from the middle should be on the outside edges and top of the new pile. Moisten each layer of your turning. If temperature went over 155 before going down, add more brown, Carbon rich, materials on your first turn and continue to monitor. If temperature did not reach 120 and started going down, turn the pile and add more green, Nitrogen rich, materials and continue to monitor.
• 9. Continue monitoring and turning the pile as the temperature peaks between 120 and 155 and begins to decrease again. The temperature decrease after each turn may happen between 2 and 7 days, depending on the materials you added in. Remember to always cover the pile/bin.
• 10. Harvest the finished compost in 3 to 12 weeks. After “enough” turns, the pile will not longer heat up, or will not reach the temperatures it had originally reached. How soon this happens, depends on the starting materials, moisture and turning. No longer heating above ambient temperature is a good indication that the decomposition process is nearing completion. The organic materials you started with will no longer be distinguishable, the volume will be significantly reduced and you should have dark brown, sweet smelling compost. 

TROUBLESHOOTING 

• When done right as I described so far, your compost should never smell bad, house mice or rats or other small animals, or attract lots of flies. The most common mistake is to treat a pile that should be managed actively as a no fuss pile. Remember that when kitchen scraps or garden veggie and fruit scraps are added, the pile needs to be turned, otherwise smells, mice, flies and the likes will happen.
  • Smells in general mean that there is not enough air flow or too much water (usually happens to piles with kitchen scraps or added manure when not turned enough). To fix it, turn the pile and add additional brown material in the mixture if the pile is “mucky”. 
  • Dryness can always be fixed!
• A perfect finished compost is one with a Carbon to Nitrogen ratio of 25 to 1. At that ratio, the finished compost makes soil life activity and nutrient uptake from plants most effective. That ratio depends on putting a calculated amount of Nitrogen and Carbon materials to start the pile with. Home composters can definitely do that, but will need to source the perfect amount of materials and time it right. However, by eyeing a 2 parts Greens to 1 part Brown materials in a minimum 3x3x3 and maximum 5x5x5 pile, monitoring moisture and the heating, or even turning and watering once a week, great nutrient rich finished home compost can be achieved (with ratios of Carbon to Nitrogen between 30 and 40 to 1). 

IF YOU NEED TROUBLESHOOTING HELP AND/OR HAVE ADDITIONAL QUESTIONS RELATED TO HOME COMPOSTING AT HOME THAT ARE NOT ADDRESSED IN THIS CONTENT, PLEASE DO NOT HESITATE TO CONTACT US AT: LUCIAN@REEARTHCONSULTING.COM

AFFORDABLE COMPOSTING SOLUTIONS FOR CARLSBAD RESIDENTS
Carlsbad residents may purchase a subsidized yard waste bin or vermicomposting bin at a highly discounted rate online. 

GEOBIN (Hot Compost)
DUE TO THE CURRENT SITUATION, PLEASE PURCHASE THIS ITEM DIRECTLY FROM RETAILER.​
Composting system for yard and kitchen organic waste ideal for all levels of composters and gardeners. ($15)

BUY FROM RETAILER

WORM BIN (Vermicompost)
DUE TO THE CURRENT SITUATION, WE CAN ONLY DELIVER THIS ITEM FOR AN ADDITIONAL $15 FEE.​
Composting system that uses worms to transform kitchen organic waste into high quality organic fertilizer. ($15)

NOT AVAILABLE

COMPOSTING WORMS
DUE TO THE CURRENT SITUATION, WE CAN ONLY DELIVER THIS ITEM FOR AN ADDITIONAL $15 FEE.​​
Primary organic waste decomposers that work well with the Geobin and especially well with the Worm Bin. ($25 per 1/2 lb)

Purchase now

WHY COMPOST?
Composting yard and kitchen organic waste saves money, saves resources and reduces negative impacts on the environment. Using compost improves soil health, fertility and water retention capacity.
Composting Saves Money & Resources

• Homemade compost reduces the need to buy chemical or other fertilizers for gardening needs
• In the garden, compost improves the capacity of the soil to retain moisture longer, so less irrigation is required and less water is wasted
• In the long term, less waste in curbside bins means less utility costs and taxpayers money needed for landfill operations and expansions
• Composting at home keeps a valuable resource out of the landfill (40% of residential waste is compostable organic material)

Composting Reduces Negative Impacts on the Environment

• Less waste transported to landfills means less carbon dioxide emissions from the associated vehicles being used
• Less organic material in the landfills means less methane gas produced by improper anaerobic decomposition at these sites
• More homemade organic compost produced means less use of chemical fertilizers that runoff into our rivers, lakes, streams and oceans
• Less waste buried at landfills means less groundwater pollution
• Composting returns valuable organic matter back into the soil to support further plants and food growth​

Composting is Recycling Inspired by Nature!

If you need further assistance with workshop registration or composting bin purchases:

• Call us at: (619) 736-5406 (if we are unavailable, we will call you back within 24 hours)
• E-mail us at Lucian@reearthconsulting.com